
Garlic has a polarising habit: you either love its flavour or loathe its less-than-fragrant reputation. But while vampires and people on first dates have good reason to avoid garlic's pungent cloves, for the rest of us it can be a satisfying and surprisingly easy-to-grow bulb.
Traditionally, garlic is planted on the shortest day of the year and harvested on the longest. At Koanga Gardens in Northland, an organic haven which boasts New Zealand's largest collection of heirloom vegetables and fruit trees, Kay Baxter and her team of gardeners cultivate about 20 different varieties of garlic.
In 1999, Baxter won a scholarship to the United States, where she attended the harvesting of the international garlic trials at Seed Savers in Iowa. "In New Zealand we have heirlooms of all the main sorts of garlic grown around the world, but we also have one that I didn't see over there. It's a Dalmatian garlic from the gumfields up north."
There are three main types of garlic: the so-called soft tops (Allium sativum), serpent-flowered Rocamboles (Allium sativum var. ophioscorodon) and giant elephant garlic (Allium ampeloprasum), which, genetically, is actually a type of leek.
"Elephant garlic doesn't have the same medicinal properties as real garlic, and the flavour's not as strong, but it does have its uses. It's quite popular because it's easy to peel and you can roast it like a root vegetable," Baxter explains.
Baxter's favourite varieties are both soft tops. She discovered 'Takahue' a few years ago, growing wild in sand dunes near Ahipara, while the attractive, pink-skinned South Island variety 'Kakanui', hails from near Oamaru.
All of the commercially-grown varieties in New Zealand are soft tops, as they're easier to harvest. The dried bulbs can also be plaited into swags, unlike the Rocamboles, which produce hard-stalked flowers that curve crazily in mid-air, like pig's tails or snakes.
To get big, fat bulbs from the Rocamboles, you must remove the flowers before they fully develop. "In Asia, they saute the young flower stalks like asparagus. They taste delicious."
Baxter reckons that garlic is one of the easiest bulbs to cultivate, provided you have fertile, free-draining soil. "Garlic hates wet feet," she warns. "The bulbs like moisture but they don't do well in heavy soils. If you have clay soil, you need to dig in lots of compost or consider planting in raised beds instead."
For the best results, buy seed garlic bulbs from a garden centre or organic vegetable supplier, rather than your local supermarket, as these can be treated to prevent them sprouting pre-sale.
When you're ready to plant, break off the fattest, healthiest, individual cloves. Generally, that means only those around the outside of the bulb - keep the thinner cloves that form in the middle of the bulb for cooking. Discard any cloves that are damaged, feel overly soft or are showing signs of mould.
Plant each clove with the pointy end facing up, and don't bury them too deep (five centimetres is more than enough).
"To get really good-sized bulbs to develop, you also need to give them lots of nutrients throughout the growing season. Commercial organic growers recommend foliar feeding with a fish-based fertiliser from June to October, as well as lots of compost and fish meal. I also tell people to mulch their garlic beds heavily as soon as they've sown the cloves. It helps retain soil moisture and means you won't have to disturb the bulbs with constant weeding."
It's crucial that the bulbs aren't over or under-watered. In cold, waterlogged soils, the cloves can start to rot before they sprout, while plants stressed by a lack of water in late spring or summer often go on to produce only one, poor quality clove, like a fat-bottomed spring onion.
The plants will be ready to harvest when their strappy green leaves start to collapse and die back. Dig the rows up and let the bulbs dry out for a day or two in the sun, then plait into swags or tie into bunches and hang in a warm, dry room out of direct sunlight until you're ready to use the cloves.
As for garlic's uses? As well as adding culinary flavour, garlic has, since ancient times, been eaten and applied externally in a bid to cure a vast range of ailments, from the common cold to baldness. (Apparently, rubbing your head with a few bulbs mashed in alcohol helps to prevent hair loss!)
The raw juice has strong antiseptic properties and ancient herbalists prescribed garlic poultices for "scrofulous sores", mixing up other garlic-based concoctions to treat rheumatism, whooping-cough, leprosy, smallpox and asthma.
Anyone who has ever watched a trashy B-grade horror film also knows that garlic reputedly wards off vampires and evil spirits. In Greece, garlic is still strung about homes and businesses to deter demons, while in nearby Albania, garlic offers protection from bad luck - or dodgy workmanship - on construction sites. Walk around the emerging tourist destinations in this former war-torn country and you'll see ropes of garlic hanging from the rooftops of all the half-built luxury hotels and bars.
Meanwhile, in Hungary, superstitious jockeys are said to tie garlic cloves to their horses' mouths to prevent their competitors getting ahead - the theory being that horses hate halitosis as much as humans.
And the cause of that distinctive aroma? A volatile sulphur-rich, oxygen-free essential oil which is present in all members of the onion family. According to Grieve's A Modern Herbal (despite its title, it was actually published in 1931) the "peculiar penetrating odour of garlic... is so diffusive that even when the bulb is applied to the soles of the feet, its odour is exhaled by the lungs". Which explains why a clove a day keeps more than just the doctor away.